J.W. Anderson SS12: Another hit!

Last season's London Fashion Week gave us the treat of a double dose of J.W. Anderson. Having presented his SS12 womenswear line a few days earlier, the designer showed his first menswear collection amongst a lot of hype.
Everyone waiting to enter the intimate venue seemed to be really excited with what we were about to see.
And Anderson didn't disappoint. The collection was in line with the womenswear one but it stood on its own. My personal favourite were the futuristic paisley fabrics in shorts, vests and t-shirts. I was blown away by the leather work. Geometric leather panels came together creating more complex geometric patterns that end up becoming a sleeveless top or a skirt. Even more impressive were the interwoven leather techniques, which combined with the amazing tailored trousers created very interesting looks very much in line with the season's luxury sportswear trend.
Check out the whole collection here and watch my video of the finale above.

The SS12 Build-Up: James Long & the snakeskin jacket

Back in September, during menswear day at London Fashion Week I attended the James Long SS12 show. I didn't really know what to expect because I wasn't too familiar with the designer then. This was, perhaps, the most surprising of the menswear shows because it didn't feel like the kind of thing you see in London. It was like I had been transported to Milan. I understood the reason for this when I found out that Long had been working on the men's division at Versace. The only element that brought me back (metaphorically) to London was the eccentricity in styling and in the mix of prints.

It was super interesting to see a collection like this at LFW. Despite what it might seem at first glance there were a lot of very wearable elements in the collection. The ultra-slim tailored shorts and the printed shirts were among these and some of my favourites.
But the pieces that stood out the most for me were the python jackets. I have had a fixation with croc and snake for as long as I can remember and I have wanted a jacket like this ever since I saw Brandon Flowers looking like this a few years back. I really liked the maroon biker jacket option from James Long but thinking about it I would probably wear the beige one a lot more. I love the classic cut and the more muted colours, which would work so well with the kind of palette that I wear in the summer. Picture it with a nice pair of denim shorts, a white tee underneath and some cool sneakers for a summer's night. Cool, non? – See below my video from the show's finale.

You can buy some James Long online here. It's also available at Harvey Nichols in London.

Christopher Shannon SS12: A formal edge

Courtesy of Christopher Shannon

I remember how excited I was last season when I got my ticket for the FW11 Christopher Shannon show. When I attend shows of designers so talented that are only going to become bigger I feel like I'm sort of witnessing the making of fashion history. Yes, that is super corny, even wanky but that's the way it is.
So I was ecstatic when I got another invite in September for the SS12 show in London. I must admit that even though I loved the winter collection I couldn't quite see myself wearing it, which doesn't mean it wasn't wearable. In fact, it was way too hip for me to ever pull off. The new collection, however, has that super cool Shannon edge but it felt a lot more grown up. The combination of his signature patchwork of prints and colours seemed to work perfectly with the perfect tailored pieced that were still evidently inspired in sportswear. Some of my favourite pieces were the black shorts with the mother-of-pearl button details, the jumpers and t-shirts printed with photographs and the shoes, which the designer created in partnership with Swear.
Now I just can't wait for his pieces to hit Oki-ni and The Corner. Those sheer half checked, half plain shirts would be the perfect final touch to a smart suit look.

PS. Follow Christopher Shannon on twitter @shannonmenswear especially on a Saturday night. There is no better X-Factor commentary than his.

Hardy Amies SS12: An Englishman in Venice

Courtesy of Hardy Amies

"I can't work out what is about Italian men that makes them look both stylish and relaxed. How can I steal a bit of their elegance?" asked The Mr Porter Post on menswear day during LFW. The answer was "Let's remember that many Italian men want to dress like an idealised Englishman". –What if we could find out at Saville Row?, must have asked herself Claire Malcolm, the creative director of Hardy Amies.
Malcolm only joined the famous tailoring house last season for her first collection –f/w 2011– but had already managed to position Hardy Amies at the front of the leading menswear London names. For her SS12 collection Claire took the Englishman on a trip to Venice. Not that of overpriced gelatto, crowds of tourists and clichés but the Venice of enlightenment that was a melting pot of cultures.

It was as if a Saville Row regular had travelled to Italy and there he had adapted his wardrobe to suit the new climate, even the style. He'd cut short his suit trousers for the day and cropped his evening ones to stay fresh. The cuffed hems gave them an elegant touch that makes them apt for meetings and such.
The tops stay more true to the tradition. Two-button blazers accompanied by matching waistcoats or lightweight double-chested jackets. For the evening, jacquard blazers in subtle colourful patterns inspired by Roman mosaics.
When avoiding the tie, the Hardy Amies man opts for a more relaxed neckerchief look that keeps the look interesting and dressed up. The shoes remain classic in shape –Oxfords, brogues and tasselled loafers in a super elegant "gold leaf" leather inspired on the Byzantine influence of Venice. For the evening the Oxford shoes come in patent leather to match the silk shirts that finish the looks.



In only two seasons the House of Hardy Amies has created a line of ready-to-wear that is more than worthy to be shown at the Pitti trade show and the Milan catwalks alongside Trussardi, Ferragamo and the rest of the houses we worship. It's young and cool but extremely refined and well made. If I could only choose one house to dress myself next summer, this would be it.

Christopher Shannon FW11: Luxury Sportswear

Christopher Shannon's was one of the menswear shows I was most excited to see last season during London Fashion Week. I really loved their SS11 collection and I couldn't have been happier to have been able to attend the show.
The sort of blanket fabrics and the patterns across jumpers and shirts were my favourite part. It was as if a sporty guy from London had been travelling around Peru and incorporated the elements he found there to what he was originally wearing. I found the ruffled trousers incredibly cool, if only I had the balls to actually wear them...
There was also a lot of patchwork, be it more as we usually see it –various fabrics mixed to form a garment– or in shirts jackets or trousers made up by two wool and quilted nylon, printed and plain silk.
I will definitely treat myself to one or two of the pieces from the collection and I can't wait to see what walks the catwalk in September for the SS12 show.

You can see the full collection here.

I'm not Frank: LFW edition

This picture was snapped by fashion156.com as I walked into the Top Man Design show last week. I rushed a lot that morning and wasn't looking my best but as you might have guessed from my post about the LFWdaily I get over excited about having my picture online. Yes, I will calm down. Eventually.

[Picture: fashion156.com]

Top Man Design fw11

Top Man's fw11 collection was right up my alley. I loved all the wool and tweed grey suits and coats. I loved how they played with understated patterns the likes of herringbone and Prince of Wales check to give the greys a certain dynamism. As could be expected from what we saw in Milan and Paris, there was quite a lot of (faux) fur, which I also loved. The scarves and stoles looked somewhat battered but it somehow made them more desirable and, well, cool. They have gone to the top of my fw11 must-haves already. As have the cropped cuffed trousers, the very 70's beige suede jacket and the red coat. I very much enjoyed how the brand has focused a lot more on details this season, which give the looks soul. Take the socks, which are just about a different colour than the trousers to contract but not draw attention. The opposite effect of the printed neckerchiefs that substitute ties —very Stefano Tonchi.


The shoes also caught my attention because they seemed chunky yet light and because they were extremely contemporary but had been design based on the blueprint of the most classic lace-ups. I am particularly keen on the red-ish pair with the slightly far back buckle.
Have a look at my video of the finale below. If the collection wasn't awesome enough, the show took place at the bar room of the National Opera House, which, funnily enough, I had envisioned hosting a show.

[Pictures: GQ-magazine.co.uk, Iñaki C.]

Hardy Amies FW11 - the preview

I would be lying if I said that Hardy Amies wasn't the house showing at London Fashion Week I was most excited about. Funnily enough, it was also the show I was meant to miss because I had been anticipating it for such a long time. The turn up was so great not everyone could be welcomed to the upstairs salon. Luckily for me, I had visited Saville Row two weeks before for a preview of the full FW11 collection. I would like firstly to thank Don for being so welcoming. This post wouldn't have been possible without his kindness.
After last season's debut at ready-to-wear, Hardy Amies surely had something big coming. Not only the speed but the quality in which the house has been brought into contemporary menswear are astounding. You can see the fingerprint of the finest tailors in every piece —from the classic blazers to the down jackets. And it is precisely that marriage between tradition and modernity that I find most genius about HA. Take, for instance, the impeccably cut single-breasted blazers but add to them a fine wool and an ombré checked print and you get both a classic piece a seasonal must have.

My absolute favourite from the collection, in addition to the blazers, was the outerwear. From a trench lined with fur to a classic peacoat to a two-piece tailored down jacket to a sportswear take on the blazer made of raw wool, everything is extremely desirable. One puts on these jackets and instantly feels like a 21st-century dandy, a Chuck Bass. There is quality and design but most importantly, coolness, which is something the Row had been lacking for a while and that has not been injected in big doses by Hardy Amies. Claire Malcom, the house's creative director, has shown an incredibly profound knowledge of tailoring and has brought that young and hip element (Kanye West has been played a lot in the studio) that will take Amies back into its golden age.

[Pictures: Iñaki C.]

Fashion, Frankly at LFW

We have to still have to wait for the last day of LFW to deliver its men's gems on Wednesday. I will be reporting from Top Man, CSM x Bally, Cassette Playa, Christopher Shannon and Hardy Amies. So follow me on twitter from twitpics on-the-go. In the meantime, rejoice with me as I was featured on today's LFWDaily paper. I am probably more excited than I should be but I don't care. I am enjoying my 0.2 minutes of fame. The snap is from Friday, when I was wearing my beige Uniqlo trousers, aubergine Massimo Dutti desert boots, H&M grey blazer and lilac gingham shirt, Uniqlo knitted tie, vintage tie clip, Massimo Dutti paisley scarf, YSL leopard belt, All Saints leather jacket and Louis Vuitton folder.

[Pictures: LFWdaily.com]

The art of DE

The film below was part of A. Sauvage's SS11 collection presentation during last London Fashion Week. Not only the film's style is fantastic but the collection pieces are stunning. It seems to be all about classic wardrobe staples with a slight twist to always abide to the "art of DE", the Dress Easy.

Hardy Amies SS11

London Fashion Week wrapped up yesterday after devoting its last day to menswear. I was lucky enough to be invited to a couple of presentations and catwalk shows but I have to admit it was the Hardy Amies invite that I was most excited about. He is such a staple of British fashion, a legend. The presentation was hosted by GQ at Simpson's-in-the-Strand. Orange juice, tea and scrambled eggs and bacon on toast accompanied the very stylish crowd that rotated around the fictitious park that took the centre of the room. The collection was extremely classic yet strikingly contemporary. Suits, in linen, wool and blends, went back to basics with single-breasted one and three buttons in summer-appropriate classic hues. I personally loved the Prince of Wales checked trench coat and suit, the very modern sunglasses and the green knitted tie.

[Pictures: Iñaki C.]

My first (proper) LFW

Firstly, let me apologise for my long absence. In my defence I have to say I haven't had much time to blog as I was only in London for a few days after I came back from Madrid and then I went for a week-trip around Tuscany with my best mate. And upon return from my Italian getaway I immersed myself in London Fashion Week. I have been incredibly late in applying for the menswear shows but I'll do my best to report about them whether I go to the show or not. In the meantime, I'll leave you with my first three ensembles so you can let me know what you think.

Day 1: Zara jersey blazer, Uniqlo checked blazer, Zara cargo tapered trousers, COS desert boots, YSL canvas bag, Way Farers.

Day 2: Zara jersey blazer, H&M shirt, Adolfo Domínguez tie, Uniqlo trousers, Massimo Dutti desert boots, Louis Vuitton folder, Way Farers.

Day 3: Folk shirt, Adolfo Domínguez parka, YSL leopard belt, Acne jeans, CH Carolina Herrera suede loafers, Louis Vuitton folder, Tom Ford sunglasses.

PS. How much do I actually look like my Mad Men avatar?!

[Pictures: Iñaki C.]