Hardy Amies SS14: The Perfect Wardrobe

I first fell in love with Hardy Amies when I attended their super elegant SS11 presentation at Simpson's-in-the-Strand a few years ago. Since then, they haven't just grown into a prominent ready-to-wear menswear brand but they've become one of the best shows in town during the new London Collections: Men.
Their latest collection for Spring/Summer 2014 is my favourite yet and definitely one of the highlights of the season, and not just in London. The collection notes describe the line as the "complete summer wardrobe for a modern London lifestyle". And very rightfully so. Unlike to many designers and brands, Amies really proposes a full wardrobe which perfectly mixes the two biggest influences of London style that have driven it through time – tailoring and street style.
The 50's influence comes from Saul Bass, an American graphic designer known for his work in advertising (a real-life Don Draper) who also created posters for Hitchcock films such as Vertigo and The Shining and who still influences graphic design now. In come the graphic motifs by means of striped jackets, trousers and knitwear. The colour palette, which combines the house's signature French navy and bone grey with reds and oranges, the blocks of colour and the shapes also reference Bass.
The accessories, which most are not able to match with a strong collection, are equally on point at Hardy Amies. Created in collaboration with British brands, the totes and holdalls are made by Chapman, the canvas based formal shoes by Grenson and the superb monk straps by Alfred Sargent – my favourites.

Top top it all off, the brand chose the top of the iconic Gherkin building to present their collection. Now all we can do is carefully build our wish lists and rush (in an orderly manner) to number 14 Saville Row in six months to complete our wardrobes and be happy men.

Courtesy of Hardy Amies

Hardy Amies SS12: An Englishman in Venice

Courtesy of Hardy Amies

"I can't work out what is about Italian men that makes them look both stylish and relaxed. How can I steal a bit of their elegance?" asked The Mr Porter Post on menswear day during LFW. The answer was "Let's remember that many Italian men want to dress like an idealised Englishman". –What if we could find out at Saville Row?, must have asked herself Claire Malcolm, the creative director of Hardy Amies.
Malcolm only joined the famous tailoring house last season for her first collection –f/w 2011– but had already managed to position Hardy Amies at the front of the leading menswear London names. For her SS12 collection Claire took the Englishman on a trip to Venice. Not that of overpriced gelatto, crowds of tourists and clichés but the Venice of enlightenment that was a melting pot of cultures.

It was as if a Saville Row regular had travelled to Italy and there he had adapted his wardrobe to suit the new climate, even the style. He'd cut short his suit trousers for the day and cropped his evening ones to stay fresh. The cuffed hems gave them an elegant touch that makes them apt for meetings and such.
The tops stay more true to the tradition. Two-button blazers accompanied by matching waistcoats or lightweight double-chested jackets. For the evening, jacquard blazers in subtle colourful patterns inspired by Roman mosaics.
When avoiding the tie, the Hardy Amies man opts for a more relaxed neckerchief look that keeps the look interesting and dressed up. The shoes remain classic in shape –Oxfords, brogues and tasselled loafers in a super elegant "gold leaf" leather inspired on the Byzantine influence of Venice. For the evening the Oxford shoes come in patent leather to match the silk shirts that finish the looks.



In only two seasons the House of Hardy Amies has created a line of ready-to-wear that is more than worthy to be shown at the Pitti trade show and the Milan catwalks alongside Trussardi, Ferragamo and the rest of the houses we worship. It's young and cool but extremely refined and well made. If I could only choose one house to dress myself next summer, this would be it.

Frank Loves: Edward Green for Hardy Amies brogues

MatchesFashion

I have been looking for the pair of brogues all my life. I once thought I found them in a pair from Alexander McQueen but I made the mistake of buying the wrong size when they were on sale...
But now I think I've finally found the ones. A few months ago when I previewed the FW11 Hardy Amies collection before the catwalk show I knew it was full of hits. Hits like these hand-crafted Falkirk brogues Edward Green has made for Hardy Amies.
The details are exquisite and extremely classic bit the two tones of bluish grey give it a very cool and contemporary feel. They look like a piece of art –like a one-off car design you can't wait to try because you know how brilliant it will feel.
The shoes retail for a price that's not for everyone but, well, a piece like this shouldn't be. You can get a pair at Matches here –also check out the Shannon brogue boots. But if you want the full experience I recommend you get down to Hardy Amies at 14 Saville Row and enjoy the amazing ambiance and the rest of the hit-filled collection.

Hardy Amies FW11 - the preview

I would be lying if I said that Hardy Amies wasn't the house showing at London Fashion Week I was most excited about. Funnily enough, it was also the show I was meant to miss because I had been anticipating it for such a long time. The turn up was so great not everyone could be welcomed to the upstairs salon. Luckily for me, I had visited Saville Row two weeks before for a preview of the full FW11 collection. I would like firstly to thank Don for being so welcoming. This post wouldn't have been possible without his kindness.
After last season's debut at ready-to-wear, Hardy Amies surely had something big coming. Not only the speed but the quality in which the house has been brought into contemporary menswear are astounding. You can see the fingerprint of the finest tailors in every piece —from the classic blazers to the down jackets. And it is precisely that marriage between tradition and modernity that I find most genius about HA. Take, for instance, the impeccably cut single-breasted blazers but add to them a fine wool and an ombré checked print and you get both a classic piece a seasonal must have.

My absolute favourite from the collection, in addition to the blazers, was the outerwear. From a trench lined with fur to a classic peacoat to a two-piece tailored down jacket to a sportswear take on the blazer made of raw wool, everything is extremely desirable. One puts on these jackets and instantly feels like a 21st-century dandy, a Chuck Bass. There is quality and design but most importantly, coolness, which is something the Row had been lacking for a while and that has not been injected in big doses by Hardy Amies. Claire Malcom, the house's creative director, has shown an incredibly profound knowledge of tailoring and has brought that young and hip element (Kanye West has been played a lot in the studio) that will take Amies back into its golden age.

[Pictures: Iñaki C.]

Hardy Amies SS11 campaign

It's hard to come by inspired advertorial campaigns for menswear these days. Thankfully, Hardy Amies is here to change that. Their SS11 ad story features British model George Barnett wearing the house's sartorial wonders for Spring having fun in the surroundings of one of those wonderful British country houses. I can't help but think of 'Brideshead Revisited'. Sebastian Flyte's sense of style was as exquisite and immaculate as it was fun and quirky and even cool. I love the house's new fashion focus for their ready-to-wear line, perfectly portrayed on their campaign.



[Pictures: TheFashinisto.com]

He's Fly: Dermot O'Leary in Hardy Amies

If any of you have been following the X Factor this last season you must have surely noticed how its host, Dermot O'Leary, has really taken an incredibly stylish turn in terms of wardrobe. He has worn a suit for every Saturday and Sunday episode and managed to keep the outfits very interesting thanks to the colour combinations and the diversity of spotless cuts. His two suits for the two finale shows, however, caught my attention even more than normal. Something that seemed only obvious once I learnt both of them were by my favourite Saville Row house —Hardy Amies. For the Saturday show Dermot donned one of the blue suits from the house's SS11 collection (which I was lucky to see live during LFW and which will become a must in its entirety). The outfit screamed contemporary and cool through the clean lines of the Row's staple tailor. On Sunday, Dermot went for a more black tie choice from the FW10 collection. This was a more classic choice yet the shorter and thiner lapels made the tuxedo jacket more current. I fell head over heels for the stunning bow tie and the perfect pocket square. Take a look at Hardy Amies' collection on their website and stay tuned for their SS11 look book!

[Pictures: xfactor.itv.com screen caps, Hardy Amies]

Hardy Amies SS11

London Fashion Week wrapped up yesterday after devoting its last day to menswear. I was lucky enough to be invited to a couple of presentations and catwalk shows but I have to admit it was the Hardy Amies invite that I was most excited about. He is such a staple of British fashion, a legend. The presentation was hosted by GQ at Simpson's-in-the-Strand. Orange juice, tea and scrambled eggs and bacon on toast accompanied the very stylish crowd that rotated around the fictitious park that took the centre of the room. The collection was extremely classic yet strikingly contemporary. Suits, in linen, wool and blends, went back to basics with single-breasted one and three buttons in summer-appropriate classic hues. I personally loved the Prince of Wales checked trench coat and suit, the very modern sunglasses and the green knitted tie.

[Pictures: Iñaki C.]